Tuesday, 24 May 2011

Nostalgic Makes


Homemade Gifts With Love
Catherine Woram

In A Nutshell: Ideal book to use with children for charming, old-fashioned easy makes

This book does not break new ground or have a Martha Stewart level of crafting sophistication. It contains 35 projects that I have already seen in one form or another in other publications. Yet it has something of an old-fashioned charm and is an ideal book to use with children for a selection of easy makes. The paper mache bowl, egg cosies and pomanders all evoked memories of my own childhood “Blue Peter” moments. All the projects are nicely illustrated with clear photos accompanying step by step instructions. A variety of crafts are used including embroidery, patchwork, beading, painting, stencilling, decoupage and baking. A plus is that most of the stuff can be made without too much skill or equipment required. Whether you want to whip up a last minute present, or want a rainy day idea, this book is well worth a look.


Friday, 15 April 2011

Not Couture But Still Professional



The Dressmaker’s Handbook Of Couture Sewing Techniques
Lynda Maynard

In A Nutshell: Ideal for an intermediate sewer with beautifully illustrated techniques for adding a professional finish to your homemade clothes

Strictly speaking, I’m not sure this book demonstrates many couture techniques but it does provide tons of useful hints for the intermediate seamstress. It’s ideal for someone who has basic sewing skills, and wants to learn processes that will embellish, or add a more professional finish to their homemade garments.

There is a nifty visual guide at the start showing all the techniques in the book. These have been arranged into three groups – bindings and finishes, visible design details and concealed design details.

The first group is mainly about ways to finish necklines and armholes, so for example, Lynda shows you how to create a banded v-neck on knit fabric. I learnt to stabilise the neckline with interfacing, and how to create a beautifully neat point, further enhanced with topstitching. Every step is illustrated with a super clear photo so they are extremely easy to follow, and convince you that equally professional looking results are within your capability.

I have seen many of the finishes Lynda explains on expensive tops in the shops. Using her instructions I will now be able to add that designer touch to my own T.shirts for a fraction of the cost. The chapter on visible design details also has a host of ideas that you could use to embellish existing clothes. How about adding a ribbon trimmed hem to a skirt, or ribbon trimming a collar band?

My sewing skills are at the stage where I learnt a lot from this book. It is less suitable for a beginner or someone who has been sewing for years.



Wednesday, 13 April 2011

Sewing With The Craft Goddess


Martha Stewart’s Encyclopedia Of Sewing And Fabric Crafts

In A Nutshell: A big satisfying book providing an introduction to many sewing skills and their application in 150 sophisticated projects.

This is a lovely big fat book, dense with information. It aims to please a wide audience which is it’s both great strength and weakness. There is bound to be something you would love to make, but equally vast tracts of the book will not match your taste or skill level.

The book begins with an introduction to sewing techniques, its usefulness dependent on your current knowledge. In covering so much ground, some subjects are merely touched upon and didn’t provide nearly enough information. I have a book dedicated to fabric reference so a section on fabrics seemed particularly sparse.

There are specific sections on appliqué, embroidery, quilting, patchwork, dyeing and printing. I rather enjoyed the section on dyeing and loved the ombre pattern used as an example. Not sure this would work quite as well if I tried it myself.

This is followed by an A to Z of projects, starting with Animals and ending with Wall Decor.
Projects always have that Martha element of sophistication, enabling you to create a shop-bought rather than a homemade look. Some are also very inventive and practical. I’m tempted to rush out and buy some oilcloth to make the lunch bags and cookery book covers. I did feel some of the projects would have benefited from more visual illustration to make more sense of some of the instructions. I was also disappointed with the clothing section, which is probably most suitable for beginners embarking on their first dressmaking project.

A CD included with the book includes some full-sized clothing patterns, and a host of templates to be used in the projects. As a UK reader all the  American birds used as motifs in several of the projects are meaningless me. I want Sparrows, Blue Tits and Robins not Bluebirds, Pelicans and Roadrunners.

Not without its weaknesses but another book to add to my Christmas present list. Though its currently available on Amazon for rather a good price.

Tuesday, 12 April 2011

Vintage Means Modern


Vintage Modern Knits
Courtney Kelley and Kate Gagnon Osborn

In A Nutshell: More modern than vintage but contains 20 pretty patterns with intricate details suitable for an experienced knitter.

“Vintage Modern” appears to be the buzz phrase of the moment, creeping into all manner of home decor, fashion and craft books. It appears to mean a judicious mixing of old and new items, or the reworking of a design from another era to suit a more modern style ethos. This book falls more into the latter category and is distinctly more modern than vintage. The “vintage” element is simply the incorporation of historical knitting techniques such as fair isle, lace and cabling into the knitting designs. Perhaps the most accurate description of this book is it’s subtitle “Contemporary Designs Using Classic Techniques”.

Although I think the title is jumping on the Vintage bandwagon, this should not detract from what is a very pretty collection of twenty patterns. They are divided into three seasonally themed collections – “Rustic Weekend”, “Vintage Feminine” and “Winter Harbour” – including a variety of sweaters, scarves, hats and gloves. No degree of difficulty is indicated, and with the level of detail incorporated, patterns are probably most suited to an experienced knitter. There are also one or two very useful knitting tips interspersed with the patterns, such as how to do a sloped bind off.

The pictures are attractive but would have made even more of an impact with a more cohesive colour palette.

I like this book but feel it is a little beyond my knitting expertise at the moment.   



Monday, 11 April 2011

A Knitting History Lesson


Knitting Fashions Of the 1940s
Jane Waller

In A Nutshell: Fascinating historical account of knitting but patterns lack detailed instruction and size range by modern standards

The strength of this book lies in the fascinating historical detail that fits knitting into the historical context of the 1940s. Against a background of the Second World War women were exhorted to “knit furiously for the men at sea, since everyone owes a personal “thank you” to the Royal Navy for magnificent services”.  With this as inspiration, a couple of the men’s knits featured in the book are “Submarine Jersey” and a cabled sweater “For The Long Hours On Night Duty”. The war also influenced women’s fashion as styles were geared to give the impression of strength with broad shoulders and a tough adult appearance.

Authentic 1940s designs are made with pure wools in a fine ply so are not quick knits. In the 1950s there was a move to synthetic yarns on larger needles. The designs in this book have been adapted to use modern yarns and sometimes a style modification such as lengthening the welt. There are some very desirable patterns but the instructions frequently only give details for one size.  Without a schematic , it is difficult to work out whether a design will fit or be flattering to your figure. These issues have been addressed in Jane’s later book “A Stitch In Time”.

I enjoyed reading this book, and looking at the pictures, but do not have enough confidence in the patterns to make something.

Sunday, 27 March 2011

1980s Vintage


The Edina Ronay Collection

In A Nutshell: Gorgeous 1980s knitting patterns that with a few tweaks could still be made and worn today.

Apparently “vintage” is something more than twenty years old, so this book from 1988, acquired from my local charity shop, now falls into this category. I was fascinated to look at these patterns and see how they had dated. Compared to current knitwear designs, Edina’s designs are generously loose-fitting with wide sleeves. Though many remain covetable, and with a few tweaks, could still be worn today. I love a long-line tennis sweater, reminiscent of the 1920s, and will definitely be making this at some point in the future. The Aran knits and Fair Isles are also undeniably classic, and will probably remain wearable for time immemorial.

In fact I was surprised to find that if the sleeves and body are made narrower, I believe most of the styles in this book could be worn today. I will certainly be revisiting this book frequently for patterns and inspiration.

The start of the book gives a fascinating glimpse into Edina’s own history and style inspirations. When I looked her up on the internet I discovered her recently launched website where you can buy her current knitwear creations. They are gorgeous and it would be wonderful if Edina could publish some of these current designs as knitting patterns.

In the meantime, I’ll have to settle for Vintage Edina.

Friday, 25 March 2011

Patterns Not So Fine


Knit So Fine

Lisa R. Myers, Laura Grutzeck, Carol Sulcoski

In A Nutshell: Pursuasive encouragement and tips for knitting with skinny yarn but only a few of 21 patterns worth making.

At the start of this book, the authors make a very persuasive case for using “skinny” yarns. They argue they enable a better fit, are more flattering, patterns are more attractive and are cheaper. I’m sold already. Incidentally, for the purposes of this book, fine yarns are classed as anything thinner than worsted weight. This seems to be rather a wide scope as I’m not sure I’d think of double knitting as a skinny yarn.

Anyway, amidst the encouragement to make fine garments are some excellent knitting tips. This includes a list of the author’s favourite skinny yarns (I thought I could also crib from this for my crochet projects). There is good advice for using stitch markers. I had not thought to mark increases/decreases at the edge, but if the marker is left in place, this will assist greatly when sewing seams together. The authors advocate patience with finishing and Carol does a seam a day. I think that is a policy I will be adopting in future. There are several tips on staying motivated when knitting with fine yarn such as measuring progress every few days, not in hours.

Then there are 21 patterns featuring a range of accessories and clothing. I have to admit they didn’t exactly fire my imagination, though they do receive reasonable feedback on Ravelry, so this is just my opinion. They are grouped into four categories – Simplicity, Speed, Style, and Shine. The only ones I liked were in the “Style” section including a wrap dress, an on-trend bamboo knit tubular skirt and a layered look sweater, one sweater giving the look of two worn together.

So in short, a useful read but the patterns are not for me.

Wednesday, 23 March 2011

In The Loop


Loop-D-Loop Crochet
Teva Durham

In A Nutshell : 25 original, often ingenious designs giving crochet a stylish fashion edge

Sometimes you find craft books in the most unexpected places. I came across this one in my local garden centre, amongst the piles of bargain books. I was instantly attracted by the rather lovely pictures. Many crochet books have dull photos, but these have a fashion edge, allowing you to see the garment clearly, but also giving you inspiration as to how it can be worn.

Teva provides original patterns that explore the many properties of crochet. Some push the boundaries a little too far for my taste. I greatly admire the ingenuity of the “Brocade Boots”, though wouldn’t want to wear them. Patterns are themed by different crochet techniques. So this commences with basic double and treble stitches, moving onto net, mesh and filet, then onto lace, followed by spikes, clusters, bobbles and puffs, finishing with free-formish and granny style crochet. I’ve earmarked as future makes a pair of lacy gloves, a filet orchard boatneck top, staggered web lacy top, marguerite jacket and medallion cardigan.

The patterns are very clear with both written instructions and diagrams for the visual crocheter.

This is a book for someone who already knows how to crochet as it contains no instructions. What it does succeed in is providing creatively stylish patterns that will allow you to make a true designer original.

Friday, 18 March 2011

For Cushion Lovers Only


Glamour At Home
Erika Knight

In A Nutshell: Glamour mainly means cushions in 15 stylish knits for the home with a vintage vibe.

This is a slim volume containing 15 knits for the home. The “Glamour” element is in the choice of high quality yarns, a subtle colour palette, and luxurious details such as beads, sequins and bows. There is a vintage vibe coming through in the photos, perfectly suiting the mood of the moment.

I am not keen on the way this book is set out. Pictures of all the projects are grouped together, with all the instructions placed at the back of the book. I would much rather have picture and pattern together, so I can quickly see the yarn details and how complicated it is to make. I find it annoying to have to keep flicking backwards and forwards.

The patterns are attractive but cushions do predominate. Two designs for a jacquard and a knot stitch cushion certainly couldn’t be out of place in any upmarket interior design emporium.

If you are looking for a cushion pattern, this book may be for you, but look elsewhere for a greater diversity of projects.

Knitting A Piece Of The Past


A Stitch In Time
Jane Waller and Susan Crawford

In A Nutshell: Vintage fashion meets knitting in a lovely book bringing the past to a modern audience

A truly luscious book that will enchant anyone interested in Vintage fashion, not just knitters. It’s based on a 1972 book which contained 100 original knitting and crochet patterns from the 1920s to the 1940s. Unfortunately the original draft of the book was destroyed in a fire so it was not possible to have it reprinted. Instead the book has now been recreated with a selection of 60 patterns reworked in contemporary yarns. As a bonus there is also a two for the price of one as the original pattern sits side by side with the modern reinterpretation.

Each decade of patterns begins with a brief introduction to its key style elements. For example the 1920s sweater was designed to conceal. It abolished the bosom and ignored the hips, by hanging like a sack from the neck to just below the hips. The main part had to be an easy to knit stitch and made in one long strip, and was often given shape and lightness by the addition of a lacy crocheted border in a more complex stitch. Low necks were often edged with a firm line of crochet.

It’s great fun identifying your decade, style wise, and which will most suit your figure. I love many of the styles, but know they would not be particularly flattering. As I’m slightly top heavy and short waisted, short boxy sweaters with high necklines and exaggerated sleeves are not for me. I would still consider making some of the patterns, but would modify the original design to make it more figure flattering. The book contains lovely photos with each garment styled to capture the essence of the era.

My first make from the book is to be the 1920s inspired crochet knit lace edged tunic.

One minor quibble is that none of the patterns have been assigned a level of difficulty, so I’m not sure how challenging some of the knits are. Equally wool weights have not been provided, making it harder to select a substitute.

I believe part two of this book is coming out shortly. I can hardly wait.

Seasonal Knitting


Inspired To Knit
Michele Rose Orne

In A Nutshell: An attractive book showcasing 19 seasonally inspired women’s knits with lovely colours and stitches but proportion and shape does not always work.

This is a good looking book with a fresh modern feel. The 19 women’s knitting patterns are grouped by the seasons, the time of year providing both the inspiration and colour palette for the designs. This is all delightfully illustrated by a mood board at the start of each section.

The patterns are interspersed with 4 workshops designed to help you find the inspiration to create your own designs. These basically cover creating a mood board, building a colour palette, creative swatching and creating a schematic to be able to knit up your design.

I enjoyed the inspiration aspect but am not entirely won over by the actual garments. Stitch patterns and motifs are very pretty but I felt the shapes of the clothes did not always work. The amber beaded cardigan looked better as a cropped bolero in its original sketch, rather than the long line version knitted up. The wedding dress proportions just don’t look right.

So for me, colour and stitch pattern were spot on but the shapes needed a rethink.

Not Enough Pictures


Weardowney Knit Couture
Henry Conway and Gail Downey

In a Nutshell: Interesting patterns but let down by unclear photos and a potted history of knitwear design written in a pretentious style.

I think this book is aimed at knitwear design students. It is written in a rather pretentious faux-academic style, so it is not a fluid easy read.

Half of the book is devoted to the history of knitting and short profiles of prominent knitwear designers. Although interesting, a lack of appropriate illustration is a major flaw. A few pages are devoted to the achievements of Chanel and Schiaparelli, the first two designers to truly incorporate knitwear into fashion design. Several of their groundbreaking designs are described but not illustrated. It would have made far more sense to show a picture, even if this was just a sketch.

The latter part of the book showcases 20 knitting patterns from design team Gail Downey and Amy Wear.  Unfortunately the arty photos do not show the designs clearly. There is a project gallery at the back of the book with more straightforward photos, but these are too small. It’s a shame as the designs are appealing and it would have been interesting to see the stitch patterns in more detail. I like their use of lurex and would like to make their vest top and stripe tunic.

The blurb claims the how to knit instructions provide the first time knitter with everything she needs to know. This is in fact a very limited amount of information, and I’m sure a beginner would need far more instruction to successfully knit a garment from the book.

This could have been a lovely book – the concept is good – but it is let down by its execution.

Thursday, 17 March 2011

Classic With A Twist


Classic Knits
Marianne Isager

In A Nutshell: Solid book of knitting patterns with quirky twists

I think the title of this book is a misnomer – something more accurate would have been “Quirky Knits”. They are the invention of Danish Knitwear designer Marianne Isager with 20 patterns for men, women and children.

They are interesting designs but relatively simple. Each pattern starts with a swatch guide, ensuring the garment will be knitted to your exact requirements. The patterns are interspersed with useful advice on knitting techniques such as colour stranding, intarsia and adjusting a design for your own size.

I liked many of the textures and stitch patterns but wasn’t entirely enamoured with the colour schemes. I thought the single coloured, textured knits worked the best. My fave designs are the man’s fisherman sweater, Cossack cardigan and the Corsage vest top.

This is one of those books to which I have a neutral reaction – it’s not without interest but I couldn’t wholeheartedly recommend it.

Colour Clashes and Bodged Beads


25 Beaded Knits
Debbie Abrahams

In A Nutshell: Outrageous misuse of beads in clunky patterns with in your face colour schemes

I love a bit of sparkle so I’m always on the hunt for attractive beaded patterns. I didn’t find any here! The term “Beaded knits” makes me imagine delicate ethereal designs in soft muted shades. Instead Debbie gives me solid chunky knits in garish colour schemes with hundreds of random beads thrown in for good measure.

This book includes a variety of patterns for home furnishings, pattern accessories and garments. Unfortunately I didn’t like any of them. The beads are generally plonked on haphazardly, rather than being an intrinsic part of the design. This is further exacerbated by their incorporation with unpleasant clashing colours. There are such lovely complementary yarns out there, why couldn’t Debbie use them? The evening bags are the only patterns where the beading is used with any success.

There is a fair isle vest where Debbie blithely states: “ You will be noticed out on the streets if you wear this funky, fair isle vest.” You certainly would, but for all the wrong reasons. It’s guaranteed to make you a candidate for “what not to wear” columns.

I will say something positive about this book. Debbie explains the technique of knitting with beads extremely well. But you will be well advised to look elsewhere for your patterns.

Anyone with a modicum of style or fashion sense should avoid this book.

Tuesday, 8 March 2011

Adding Some Sparkle



Designer Bead Embroidery
Kenneth D. King

In A Nutshell: Patterns and techniques for 150 ornate beaded designs but somewhat old-fashioned in style

I’ve occasionally added a few beads round the neckline of some tops and often thought I’d like to tackle something more complex, so picked up this book looking for ideas. It contains 150 designs alongside information on equipment and basic techniques. There is also a very useful section giving design pointers as to where to incorporate beading into a garment.

The designs are stunning but I was put in mind of an old wealthy socialite wearing ornate haute couture. I’m no longer a youngster but would like to have seen more fresh and funky designs.

There is a photo of all the finished designs accompanied by a clear diagram and helpful tips to duplicate it. I feel I would have been more inspired to see photos of the complete garment so the beading could be viewed as part of a whole.

This book inspires me with the diverse range of effects that can be achieved with beading but I’m looking for more modern styles. I did like some insect designs but many others are a little too ornate for my taste.




Monday, 7 March 2011

Knitting In Black And White



Sweet and Simple Knitting Projects
Sally Walton

In A Nutshell: Useful, well-written book with fifteen easy projects for a novice knitter, but black and white format fails to inspire.

I am generally a fan of the Teach Yourself Books and have found their titles on French and Article Writing very useful. Unfortunately the format is not quite so effective for crafts. Knitting is a strongly visual activity and needs visual stimulation. This is a little paperback book on cheap paper with grainy black and white photos. When I took the time to read the content, I found it well written with good advice. There is also a fascinating section on the history if knitting.

It’s aimed at beginners with how-to-knit instructions and fifteen easy patterns. Though strictly speaking this is fourteen as I don’t consider a garter stitch scarf a pattern.  The projects include a hot-water bottle cover, a bag and some hats, quick knits that would make good gifts. Without a colour photo showing the finished articles, they fail to inspire. There is a jeans style hat which is probably quite cool, but a black and white picture does not make me want to knit it.

The book includes some good internet links and interesting tips. I learnt that running needles through my hair will help the yarn slide along better. But although I learnt some useful stuff, it’s not a book I will be returning to.




Friday, 4 March 2011

Too Many Flowers


Knitting In The Details
Louisa Harding

In A Nutshell: 24 simple knits embellished with embroidery, beading and appliqué that may have limited appeal

I love Louisa’s introduction to this book where she explains the inspiration behind it. She has a desire to collect stuff that sparkles or glistens then use these finds to add a special detail, a finishing touch that will make an item truly unique. In a world of instant availability, it’s time to recreate forgotten crafts. On this basis, I was expecting some very special pieces and unfortunately I didn’t feel they came up to my expectations.

This book contains 24 projects, mainly simple knits, where the interest comes from adding beading, appliqué and embroidery. There is one really standout piece, a very pretty lace and beaded edge bolero which I’d love to make. But apart from this, little else appealed. I thought some of the items would have looked better without embellishment. Of course, this is all a matter of personal taste, and I’m sure some people will love lots of stuff in this book.




Thursday, 3 March 2011

Vintage Modern


Vintage Knits
Rowan

In A Nutshell: 31 vintage inspired designs for both men and women with modern twists and interesting styling details

This book perfectly captures the mood of the moment with a love for all things vintage. It features designs inspired by the 40s, 50s and 60s, adapted for modern figures using Rowan wools. There are 31 patterns; seven are for men, featuring top Rowan designers including Kaffe Fassett, Kim Hargreaves and Louisa Harding.

I counted up and there are actually eight patterns I would consider making, so considered this a quite good return on the current cover price, as I would be paying around a £1 a pattern.  Amongst the designs I wasn’t so keen on, I picked up little styling details that would work with other garments. I liked an eyelet neckline and ribbon tie.

All the knitwear is beautifully styled with complementary vintage clothes and accessories. Each piece has a little information about the inspiration behind it and even some styling tips as to how to wear it.

The designs make extensive use of tweed wools to good effect. Many of the designs for women are little fitted cardigans with interesting detail. My absolute favourite was a little belted jacket worked in off-white tweed with red intarsia floral motifs.

I’ve borrowed this book from the library but may have to buy it.




Wednesday, 2 March 2011

Knitting By Design



How To Use, Adapt And Design Knitting Patterns
Sam Elliott and Sidney Bryan

In A Nutshell: Modern fresh layout and well explained method of knitting design let down by unattractive examples.

This book has had some quite sniffy reviews on Amazon, but I rather enjoyed it. To start with, there is a fresh, clean modern appeal in the layout, making it an attractive book to read. With regards to content, it breaks down into three distinct sections. Firstly how to use shop bought patterns, then how to create your own patterns, and thirdly how to change and adapt a pattern.

The most successful part is undoubtedly how to create your own knitting pattern. I found the author’s method fascinating.  They use an existing garment as a starting point, and this does not necessarily need to be a knitted item. To demonstrate the method the authors use a T shirt, taking you from measurements, through creating a tension swatch, converting this to stitches and rows, making a paper pattern and using this to create a toile. I found the instructions well described and feel I would be able to successfully use their method.

Their fusion of sewing and knitting particularly appealed to me, though I understand a non-sewer would probably not like this method of design. I am inspired to look through my wardrobe and see whether I have a garment that will translate to a knitted item.

The main failing of this book is that the examples used to demonstrate the techniques are unappealing. The one exception is the cover, a simple A line cardigan with cabling detail. I was disappointed that this was not included as a pattern with the book. I suppose I will just have to follow the author’s instructions and design it myself.




Monday, 28 February 2011

Tie A Ribbon



Fashion Trims
Louise Turner

In A Nutshell: 30 projects, predominantly ribbon based, to create unique trims for your clothes and accessories

This is a big glossy book containing 30 projects to embellish your clothes and accessories. Louise Turner wants you to make something unique with simple techniques. Many of the ideas are based around ribbons, using them sewn on, ruched, and made into roses or rosettes.

Instructions are accompanied by a few photos, though I felt more diagrams or extra photos would make some of these clearer. I could not always work out exactly how to do something.

For the most part, projects are in good taste, though in a couple of cases I feel Louise has overstepped the boundaries. A ribbon decorated summer dress would only look good on a four year old or someone dancing round a maypole. A lace trimmed denim jacket and knickerbockers represent a serious style faux pas. Mixing in with these monstrosities, there are some lovely ideas. I love the personalised red espadrilles, circular skirt with cord circles and gathered ribbon scarf.

It’s also a good sourcebook for finding ideas to adapt. I’ve just spotted a shirt retailing for £229 embellished with cut ribbon work, a technique Louise uses on a cardigan. An easy way to create a designer look for a fraction of the cost. Let’s get trimming.




Wednesday, 23 February 2011

Trash Into Treasure



Eco Craft
Susan Wasinger

In A Nutshell: Ingenious book repurposing discarded items into stylish objects for the home.

This book took my breath away with its sheer ingenuity. It’s all about looking at the stuff you would normally discard and meditating on its possibilities for transforming into something completely different. So the 30 projects are based around rubbish – plastic 6 pack holders are melted together with an iron to produce a screen. Metallic coffee bags are taped together into a tote bag. Plastic milk jugs become a tulip shaped pendant light.

The book is beautifully illustrated – objects may be created from trash but the photos look like they belong in a high end interiors magazine.

My only criticism is that many of the projects would require a patience and skill level far beyond my capacity. Though admittedly there are easy projects such as pulped paper bowls.

The project I’m most keen to try is the painted jars. Blackboard paint transforms empty glass jars into a designer-look item. It’s a great idea for unifying a mish-mash of jars.

Susan Wasinger has inspired me to look at my “rubbish” with fresh eyes and consider its reincarnation possibilities.




Tuesday, 22 February 2011

Sewing Green



Sew Eco
Ruth Singer

In A Nutshell: Highly informative book about the environmental impact of fabrics, but let down by dull, unoriginal projects

This book is all about putting the green into your sewing. The most interesting part is definitely the first few chapters, explaining the impact of various fabrics on the environment. Ruth’s aim is to help you understand all the issues involved to make your own choices for low impact sewing.

I learnt that cotton is from a sustainable source but has a high environmental impact with chemically intensive production and high air mileage. An organic fabric may have little chemical processing but is also high on air miles and not necessarily fair-trade.

There are also other good green sewing tips – try “upcycling”, turning something into a higher value item such as curtains into skirt. Dismantle charity shop buys such as keeping the lining and zip from a skirt for a future projects.

Ruth is obviously very knowledgeable about her subject and communicates the information well. I will certainly be taking the book’s advice into account in future fabric purchases. Yet I think it failed as a craft book. The 20 projects contain several ideas for using up fabric scraps but left me unenthused. Pincushions, felted tea-cosies and curtain skirts have all been done in better ways before. There is a hat which looks much better in its “before” version.

This book informs but doesn’t inspire.




Tuesday, 15 February 2011

Chunky Knitting



The Yarn Girls’ Guide To Simple Knits
Julie Carles and Jordana Jacobs

In A Nutshell: Simple knitting patterns in chunky wool that may suit a beginner looking for super fast results.

I really enjoyed the “Yarn Girls’ Guide to Beyond The Basics” so I was motivated to hunt out their earlier work. Unfortunately this didn’t impress me quite so much.

This book is firmly aimed at beginners with 30 patterns in simple shapes covering pullovers for both men and women, hats, scarves, ponchos and throws. There are also basic instructions for how to knit, though I felt there were some important omissions. For example the Yarn Girls only give one method of casting on and do not explain how to join a shoulder with the three needle bind off.

The projects are designed to be quick and easy with chunky wool knitted on big needles. This may give fast results but I don’t think many of the designs would be very flattering for an average sized woman. In the book the items are displayed on a dummy, rather than a real person.
The Yarn Girls suggest you could start a project on Saturday and wear it to work on Monday morning. I think I’d rather forgo such instant gratification to make something in a thinner yarn that actually suited me. The chunky approach does work for some accessories such as the scarves. Though I feel the pattern included with  a basic garter stitch is something a child could invent.

I do appreciate their technique of using two or three yarns together to create interesting textured colour schemes. This is something I will definitely do in the future, but perhaps with 4 ply wool.




Friday, 11 February 2011

Sewing Sparkle



Bead and Sequin Embroidery Stitches
Stanley Levy

In A Nutshell: An introductory taster to bead embroidery with good technical know-how and several inspirational projects.

I love a bit of sparkle so I was delighted to receive this “free” book (post and packing costs only) courtesy of an offer with “Making” magazine.

Stanley Levy has an impeccable pedigree for writing this book. Although now retired, he has many years’ beading experience, including creating beaded dresses for various ice skating championships. His experience as a former teacher shines through in the way the book is in a course format, with exercises to start from basics, and gradually build on skills. I was rather fascinated to discover so many different methods existed to sew on beads and sequins. The techniques are illustrated with clear diagrams and the final results shown with a photo.

My favourite part of the book is the Author’s Gallery with pictures and patterns for several projects. Instructions are not given in a great deal of detail, so you will need to fill in the gaps with your own imagination. There are also examples of work from Stanley’s students with only a photo for inspiration.

All the designs are shown in close up detail. I would have liked to see a picture of the complete garment to see how the beading worked with the overall design. This is a book that whetted my appetite but left me wanting more. I felt I was given the technical know-how but would like to see more finished examples of beaded embroidery in practice to provide the inspiration to create my own design.




Thursday, 10 February 2011

Crochet On The Edge



Crochet Edgings & Trims
Susan Smith

In A Nutshell: Good source book for 150 crochet trims with clear photos and good technical instruction but lacks inspiration

This is one of those books that does exactly what is says on the tin, no more, no less. It is a source book for 150 crochet trims, grouped by edgings, fringes, braids, motifs and accessories. Come here when you are looking for a shell edge to finish your top, an interesting fringe for a cushion or a motif for your beret.

Each of the samples are photographed clearly in attractive colour schemes so it is easy to compare and contrast to find what you are looking for. The technical bit of how to make each item is provided in a separate section.

Five projects are also provided, using trims to decorate a bolero, cardigan, cushion, shirt and beret. My main criticism is that the book could have been much more inspiring in providing examples of how trims can actually be used. The projects included are predictable and unexciting.

I will refer to this book when I am looking for the how-to for something specific, but will seek crochet inspiration elsewhere.




Tuesday, 8 February 2011

Reimagine, Reuse and Reinvent



PS – I Made This
Erica Domesek

In A Nutshell: 25 ingenious projects for accessories and clothes to create your own New York style

I feel I am absorbing cool, hip New York style just by reading this book. Super stylist Erica Domesk claims to have DIY in her DNA and proves it with 25 runway inspired projects. Her philosophy is “Can you paint, embellish, cut, add to or adorn something similar to get the look or feel you’ve just fallen for?” I like to think I have a similar attitude but have only a fraction of Erica’s creative ingenuity.

She shows you how to make a variety of innovative jewellery, accessories and clothes. Some were a step too far for me – I certainly couldn’t imagine wanting to wear a string of bouncy balls in a pair of tights around my neck. Others, like the cork earrings, ring necklace and rhinestone studded heels were much more covetable. I’ve seen jewel encrusted shoes in the shops this spring, and a glue gun may be just the way to get the look for a fraction of the cost.

Erica’s trademark is to include mood boards for each piece, showing the inspiration behind each project. They immediately make you want to design your own.

The book also contains some interesting website suggestions, though the shopping sites would be of most use to American readers.

If the book leaves you wanting more, you can check out Erica’s own website.  




Monday, 7 February 2011

Will I Become An Embroidery Addict?


Machine Embroidery
Isabel Stanley

In a Nutshell: Beautifully illustrated book demonstrating the breadth and versatility of machine embroidery with 25 projects

Kirstie Allsopp memorably called machine embroidery the “crack cocaine” of the craft world, so I have been wondering whether I need a fix. In pursuit of more information I randomly picked up this book from the library, instantly seduced by the striking photos. I was quite surprised to find it had been published back in 1996 as there is a very modern feel to it.

It has 25 projects, designed to form a complete course in machine embroidery and covers free stitch, appliqué cut work, shadow work and open work. There are clear explanations of the basic techniques, all illustrated with clear photos.

The book contains a gallery of items made by leading exponents of the craft and I marvelled at the diversity of what can be achieved. Isabel says machine embroidery is for “people with limited patience whose priority is creativity over occupation”. However, many of the projects in the book will require endless supplies of patience and attention to detail. Though I think in many cases the stunning end results may make this worthwhile.

My favourite project was a shadow appliqué shirt. I’d love to create my own unique fabric and have a truly one-off piece of clothing. Perhaps one day I’ll get round to it.




Wednesday, 2 February 2011

Knitting Up Instant Gratification


The Yarn Girls Guide To Beyond The Basics
Julie Carles and Jordana Jacobs

In A Nutshell: 34 fun, stylish patterns knitted in chunky yarn for quick results

I know when I’ve enjoyed a book when I immediately looked to see if the author’s have written anything else. Fortunately The Yarn Girls have obliged so I have already ordered their earlier work “The Yarn Girls Guide to Beyond The Basics” from the local library. Thanks to the wonders of Ravelry I was also able to check out their complete knitting oeuvre.

This book is entitled “Beyond The Basics”, but none of the designs are particularly difficult. Furthermore, they are knitted on large needles with chunky wool, so they are as close to instant gratification as knitting can get. 34 patterns cover a variety of pullovers, cardigans, ponchos, hats, scarves and blankets. They are excellent simple styles with a twist, exactly the sort of stuff I like to knit. I’ve picked out a striped cardi, A-Line pullover, and flared hat as future projects. What really endeared me to this book, was the little intro to each pattern, describing the person who had inspired the design.

I do have some criticisms. Some of the information could have been provided in a more understandable format. I’d normally check for bust measurement to determine which size to knit. Here the width was given, e.g. 17.5”, so it was necessary to double this figure to find the correct size. Only three sizes are provided for each pattern, so they are only suitable for standard sized people. The weight of the yarn isn’t given, so it isn’t simple to work out a possible substitution. It would also have been useful if more help could have been provided in how to adapt a pattern. I’d frequently like a sweater shape, but would like to change a neckline.

Saying all this, I still love The Yarn Girls and look forward to seeing more from them.




Restyling A Classic Piece


Vogue Sewing
Revised and Updated

In A Nutshell: Elegant and stylish book explaining the sewing techniques required to achieve a professional standard.  

I feel I am treading on hallowed ground in even attempting to review this classic book, originally published more than 40 years ago. Its high reaching aim is to elevate the craftsmanship of an amateur sewer to a professional level. As such, it has a wide scope, taking a beginner from analysing their figure, choosing a pattern and fabrics, sewing equipment, pattern alterations, construction techniques, tailoring and adding a custom touch.

One of my favourite chapters concerns fashion analysis and explaining the fundamental concepts of design. This section puts many “How to Dress” books to shame with useful pointers in choosing flattering and attractive outfits. I particularly enjoyed the exposition on the use of line and in future I will be thinking much more carefully about my use of horizontals and verticals.

This is an elegant and stylish book which I am pleased to have on my bookshelf. However, I have to admit this is not my go-to reference book when I want to look up a sewing technique. That honour belongs to the Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing which has the edge in providing detailed and clear explanations.

The Vogue book would have benefited from more photos. For example, a lovely chapter on creative trims is illustrated with line drawings. These are charming but I would have been more inspired by an actual photo.

Despite a few drawbacks, Vogue Sewing is a beautifully written book well worth adding to a sewing library.




Monday, 31 January 2011

A Little French Chic

 
In A Nutshell: Uses embroidery to create timeless French style with challenging, intricate and complex designs
Another charity shop find – they are such a wonderful source of interesting books, often far superior to current publications. I had difficulty even finding this book on Amazon – there wasn’t an image available.
My copy of “The Embroidery Book” was first published in 1989, but I think it was originally published in France around 1980. Una Stubbs comments in her delightful introduction, how true style never dates, and these eye-catching embroidery designs aptly demonstrate the truth in that statement. More than twenty years after publication, the patterns still look amazing.
The book is divided into three sections – the first contains canvas work, the second has designs for clothing and the last section is all about home-furnishings. Many of the designs are stunning. My only reservation is that they would represent something of a challenge in reproducing their intricacy and complexity. The instructions lack detail, and give more of a sketchy overview, rather than a step by step approach. I love some colourful fish designs, but you have to copy the stitch work from a photo, there isn’t a clear diagram. But this still wouldn’t stop me giving them a go. Other designs that caught my eye included a countryside mosaic, ethnic flowers and fall of leaves. Anyone completing some of the patterns in this book would have a treasured heirloom piece.
This book not only has dazzling designs but shows how embroidery has a breadth of uses – applications include bedspreads, cushions, bags, dresses, rugs and tablecloths. There is a charming project called “Celebration Time” which involves creating a romantic dining area with ethereal designs on net. Trust the French to combine sewing style with romance.

Friday, 28 January 2011

Dreams Required


Dream Sewing Spaces
Lynette Ranney Black

In A Nutshell: Full of practical ideas to create a sewing space but short on visual inspiration.

You will need to bring your own dreams to the sewing table, this book is all about problem-solving,, not inspiration. The author is a certified kitchen designer and her practial side dominates over creativity.

This book was originally written in 1996, and it does feel dated, both in its layout and imagery. Saying that, ignore the photos, and the content it very helpful.

It will be most useful to someone starting their sewing room from scratch. Lynette teaches you how to analyse your needs and space, selecting an area for your work, whether this be the end of a hallway, corner of a dining room, or an island space. The author’s interior design credentials are on display as she suggests correct work heights and storage levels, choosing appropriate furniture, lighting and electrical factors, and what to put on your floors and walls.

The storage and organisation chapter has many tips, and offers several different options. For example, a multitude of ideas are given for storing patterns.

If you want visual inspiration for a creative space, I’d suggest “Where Women Create”. Then “Dream Sewing Spaces” will help you make it happen.




Thursday, 27 January 2011

Endless Inspiration


Best Ever Craft Project Book
Edited by Lucy Painter

In A Nutshell: Hundreds of craft ideas to suit all tastes and skill levels

I found this book in a charity shop for the absolute bargain price of £1.50, less than the price of a Sunday newspaper. It contains a mammoth 300 projects, organised into seven crafting groups including paper crafts, stencilling, embroidery, appliqué, modelling, woodwork and decorating glass.

With so many projects stuffed in, understandably some of the instructions are quite sketchy. However they will satisfy a range of skills, many easy enough for a child, others requiring the painting ability of a Picasso. There are some very innovative ideas. I remember doing paper mache on a balloon as a child. Here it is reinvented in a stylish modern way to create a jug resembling a modern Italian ceramic.

As a bonus, the book includes a great selection of templates that will have a multitude of uses, not necessarily the one applied in the project. A fish motif is used on a painted tile, but could equally become an embroidery pattern

This is a brilliant book to flick through for ideas. If anything, there is too much choice, as I’m finding it difficult to settle on one project





Wednesday, 26 January 2011

Not A Fit For Me


Crochet That Fits
Mary Jane Hall

In A Nutshell: Hit and miss crochet patterns shaped with different height stitches

Mary Jane states her aim is to create fitted and fluid crochet designs without the need to do any shaping. She achieves this by making stitches of varying heights on the same row. 33 designs, including bags, headbands, belts, dresses and tops illustrate the system.

There are some interesting patterns, but the choice of colours and styling fails to “sell” the designs. A striped sleeveless turtleneck sweater has been made in a truly awful stripe combination. You need to be able use your imagination to visualise different colours and wools.

I bought this book specifically for the baby-doll top pattern. I made the top half without any problem. It’s made in one piece, using crochet in the back loop only, to create a bodice that will stretch to fit around the bust. This worked well, and was easy to adjust for a good fit. Problems arose when I commenced the lacy lower half. The graduated effect is achieved by starting with double crochet and working up to double trebles. How I hated making those double trebles. And I didn’t like the overall effect at all. I don’t abandon many projects, but this is one of them.

I had more success with the flared tweed hat, albeit using a non tweed yarn. The graduated technique worked better here. I quite like the finished hat, though it’s a little floppy, and I intend to add a band, rather than the flower used in the pattern.

Personally I don’t have any problems in shaping crochet the normal way, and prefer it to Mary Jane’s method of different stitch heights. But I’m pleased to have learnt the technique, and may come back to it in the future.




Tuesday, 25 January 2011

Woolly Inspiration


Simple Knitting
Erika Knight

In A Nutshell: Beautifully illustrated how to knit book with patterns that progressively build on skills

I recently reviewed “Purls Of Wisdom” by Jenny Lord, so I was interested to compare it against this one by Erika Knight, as both are aimed at teaching beginner’s how to knit. I think I would have been able to teach myself from either book as they both clearly explain the basics.  Erika’s book is much more lavishly illustrated which for me gives it that inspirational edge. The photos of knitting samples in lovely, natural earthy shades appear almost touchable, and motivate you to immediately pick up your needles.

“Simple Knitting” contains 20 patterns designed to progressively build on skills. This means starting out with a garter stitch scarf and ending with a very desirable classic ‘V’ neck cardigan. Projects are given a 4 scale difficulty rating, but even the “experienced” knits could be tackled by a relative beginner with patience and help.

Jenny’s book has a less desirable, more random collection of patterns, many intended to be gifts. However, she does but provides better background information on knitting as a craft, and some very useful internet resources.

Erika’s book will inspire the novice knitter by its strong visual element, whereas “Purls Of Wisdom” is more about the text. I don’t think either would disappoint a beginner.




Monday, 24 January 2011

Knitting Through The Seasons


The Knitter’s Year
Debbie Bliss

In A Nutshell: Seasonal stash busting ideas but wide variability in the quality of the patterns

I love the concept of this book – a knit for every week of the year. Consequently the 52 projects are divided into four seasonal groups, and intended to be doable within seven days.

The issue I have is that by keeping to this strict timescale, some of the ideas hardly amount to a genuine pattern. There is a pompom garland which simply constitutes making five pompoms. Another, a belt, is basically a knitted strip in garter stitch. Admittedly this has the addition of a ribbon which elevates it into a more interesting design, so becomes a good way of using up oddments of wool.
Debbie has been lazy with several of the designs and not given them enough thought. Saying that, with so many projects in the book, several of the knits are bound to appeal. My particular favourites are the striped gloves, beret and lacy scarf.

This is a good book to flick through for stash busting or gift ideas, but there are not enough good patterns for me to want to buy it.



Friday, 21 January 2011

Creating A Paper Mountain


Make Your Own Clothes
Marie Clayton

In A Nutshell: Classic patterns that can be custom-sized, but require patience to print out and use.

I’d forgotten I even owned this book, until I recently came across it on my bookshelves. It basically contains 20 patterns (two are for children). These are divided into four sections, with progressive levels of difficulty. So the first chapter is an introduction to basic seams and gathers, starting with a simple wrap skirt. The last section has moved onto tailoring with a final project of a shawl collared jacket.

The patterns are basically classic shapes so wouldn’t appeal to anyone with high fashion aspirations. I am tempted to make a few, including a beret, tailored blouse, and tie front tunic.

Both the advantage and drawback to this book is the patterns are provided on a CD. This enables you to enter your own measurements and create custom fit patterns. Unfortunately you then have to print out the patterns yourself and stick all the sheets of paper together.

I tried printing out the beret pattern, on the basis that would lose the least amount of paper. The software is reasonably easy to use, though not entirely intuitive. There is the opportunity to move the pattern pieces around to minimise pattern usage. Fabric requirements are provided but you need to work out your own pattern layouts. I think a beginner would struggle without help so this book would most suit someone with some sewing skills.

Now I’ve rediscovered this book, I will be using it, even if it’s just to make the beret.





Thursday, 20 January 2011

Visual Magic


Where Women Create:
Book Of Inspiration

Jo Packham and Jenny Doh

In A Nutshell:  Stunning photos and practical tips for designing a creative workspace

This book is for any woman who has dreamed of a personalised creative space of her own. It features an eclectic mix of knitters, painters, designers and assorted artists from around the world and peaks into their working world. This is a visual Viagra with luscious photos to stimulate the imagination.

But the accompanying text also provides practical tips from each of the featured artists on organisation, and exercises for fuelling creativity. It was interesting to note that different artists would often have the same suggestion. It may sound prosaic in a creative environment, but several mentioned that having deadlines (real or artificial) imposed structure and kick started creativity. Many also said they liked to keep their working materials on display for constant visual inspiration. As an exercise to fuel creativity, an oft repeated suggestion was to design for a character from a film, show or TV programme.

Dip into this book at random and experience serious lifestyle envy. A treasure trove of ideas to plunder for your own use.