Showing posts with label Jane Waller. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jane Waller. Show all posts

Monday, 11 April 2011

A Knitting History Lesson


Knitting Fashions Of the 1940s
Jane Waller

In A Nutshell: Fascinating historical account of knitting but patterns lack detailed instruction and size range by modern standards

The strength of this book lies in the fascinating historical detail that fits knitting into the historical context of the 1940s. Against a background of the Second World War women were exhorted to “knit furiously for the men at sea, since everyone owes a personal “thank you” to the Royal Navy for magnificent services”.  With this as inspiration, a couple of the men’s knits featured in the book are “Submarine Jersey” and a cabled sweater “For The Long Hours On Night Duty”. The war also influenced women’s fashion as styles were geared to give the impression of strength with broad shoulders and a tough adult appearance.

Authentic 1940s designs are made with pure wools in a fine ply so are not quick knits. In the 1950s there was a move to synthetic yarns on larger needles. The designs in this book have been adapted to use modern yarns and sometimes a style modification such as lengthening the welt. There are some very desirable patterns but the instructions frequently only give details for one size.  Without a schematic , it is difficult to work out whether a design will fit or be flattering to your figure. These issues have been addressed in Jane’s later book “A Stitch In Time”.

I enjoyed reading this book, and looking at the pictures, but do not have enough confidence in the patterns to make something.

Friday, 18 March 2011

Knitting A Piece Of The Past


A Stitch In Time
Jane Waller and Susan Crawford

In A Nutshell: Vintage fashion meets knitting in a lovely book bringing the past to a modern audience

A truly luscious book that will enchant anyone interested in Vintage fashion, not just knitters. It’s based on a 1972 book which contained 100 original knitting and crochet patterns from the 1920s to the 1940s. Unfortunately the original draft of the book was destroyed in a fire so it was not possible to have it reprinted. Instead the book has now been recreated with a selection of 60 patterns reworked in contemporary yarns. As a bonus there is also a two for the price of one as the original pattern sits side by side with the modern reinterpretation.

Each decade of patterns begins with a brief introduction to its key style elements. For example the 1920s sweater was designed to conceal. It abolished the bosom and ignored the hips, by hanging like a sack from the neck to just below the hips. The main part had to be an easy to knit stitch and made in one long strip, and was often given shape and lightness by the addition of a lacy crocheted border in a more complex stitch. Low necks were often edged with a firm line of crochet.

It’s great fun identifying your decade, style wise, and which will most suit your figure. I love many of the styles, but know they would not be particularly flattering. As I’m slightly top heavy and short waisted, short boxy sweaters with high necklines and exaggerated sleeves are not for me. I would still consider making some of the patterns, but would modify the original design to make it more figure flattering. The book contains lovely photos with each garment styled to capture the essence of the era.

My first make from the book is to be the 1920s inspired crochet knit lace edged tunic.

One minor quibble is that none of the patterns have been assigned a level of difficulty, so I’m not sure how challenging some of the knits are. Equally wool weights have not been provided, making it harder to select a substitute.

I believe part two of this book is coming out shortly. I can hardly wait.