1980s Vintage

The Edina Ronay Collection

In A Nutshell: Gorgeous 1980s knitting patterns that with a few tweaks could still be made and worn today.

Apparently “vintage” is something more than twenty years old, so this book from 1988, acquired from my local charity shop, now falls into this category. I was fascinated to look at these patterns and see how they had dated. Compared to current knitwear designs, Edina’s designs are generously loose-fitting with wide sleeves. Though many remain covetable, and with a few tweaks, could still be worn today. I love a long-line tennis sweater, reminiscent of the 1920s, and will definitely be making this at some point in the future. The Aran knits and Fair Isles are also undeniably classic, and will probably remain wearable for time immemorial.

In fact I was surprised to find that if the sleeves and body are made narrower, I believe most of the styles in this book could be worn today. I will certainly be revisiting this book frequently for patterns and inspiration.

The start of the book gives a fascinating glimpse into Edina’s own history and style inspirations. When I looked her up on the internet I discovered her recently launched website where you can buy her current knitwear creations. They are gorgeous and it would be wonderful if Edina could publish some of these current designs as knitting patterns.

In the meantime, I’ll have to settle for Vintage Edina.

Patterns Not So Fine



Knit So Fine

Lisa R. Myers, Laura Grutzeck, Carol Sulcoski

In A Nutshell: Pursuasive encouragement and tips for knitting with skinny yarn but only a few of 21 patterns worth making.

At the start of this book, the authors make a very persuasive case for using “skinny” yarns. They argue they enable a better fit, are more flattering, patterns are more attractive and are cheaper. I’m sold already. Incidentally, for the purposes of this book, fine yarns are classed as anything thinner than worsted weight. This seems to be rather a wide scope as I’m not sure I’d think of double knitting as a skinny yarn.

Anyway, amidst the encouragement to make fine garments are some excellent knitting tips. This includes a list of the author’s favourite skinny yarns (I thought I could also crib from this for my crochet projects). There is good advice for using stitch markers. I had not thought to mark increases/decreases at the edge, but if the marker is left in place, this will assist greatly when sewing seams together. The authors advocate patience with finishing and Carol does a seam a day. I think that is a policy I will be adopting in future. There are several tips on staying motivated when knitting with fine yarn such as measuring progress every few days, not in hours.

Then there are 21 patterns featuring a range of accessories and clothing. I have to admit they didn’t exactly fire my imagination, though they do receive reasonable feedback on Ravelry, so this is just my opinion. They are grouped into four categories – Simplicity, Speed, Style, and Shine. The only ones I liked were in the “Style” section including a wrap dress, an on-trend bamboo knit tubular skirt and a layered look sweater, one sweater giving the look of two worn together.

So in short, a useful read but the patterns are not for me.

In The Loop

Loop-D-Loop Crochet

Teva Durham

In A Nutshell : 25 original, often ingenious designs giving crochet a stylish fashion edge

Sometimes you find craft books in the most unexpected places. I came across this one in my local garden centre, amongst the piles of bargain books. I was instantly attracted by the rather lovely pictures. Many crochet books have dull photos, but these have a fashion edge, allowing you to see the garment clearly, but also giving you inspiration as to how it can be worn.

Teva provides original patterns that explore the many properties of crochet. Some push the boundaries a little too far for my taste. I greatly admire the ingenuity of the “Brocade Boots”, though wouldn’t want to wear them. Patterns are themed by different crochet techniques. So this commences with basic double and treble stitches, moving onto net, mesh and filet, then onto lace, followed by spikes, clusters, bobbles and puffs, finishing with free-formish and granny style crochet. I’ve earmarked as future makes a pair of lacy gloves, a filet orchard boatneck top, staggered web lacy top, marguerite jacket and medallion cardigan.

The patterns are very clear with both written instructions and diagrams for the visual crocheter.

This is a book for someone who already knows how to crochet as it contains no instructions. What it does succeed in is providing creatively stylish patterns that will allow you to make a true designer original.

For Cushion Lovers Only

Glamour At Home

Erika Knight

In A Nutshell: Glamour mainly means cushions in 15 stylish knits for the home with a vintage vibe.

This is a slim volume containing 15 knits for the home. The “Glamour” element is in the choice of high quality yarns, a subtle colour palette, and luxurious details such as beads, sequins and bows. There is a vintage vibe coming through in the photos, perfectly suiting the mood of the moment.

I am not keen on the way this book is set out. Pictures of all the projects are grouped together, with all the instructions placed at the back of the book. I would much rather have picture and pattern together, so I can quickly see the yarn details and how complicated it is to make. I find it annoying to have to keep flicking backwards and forwards.

The patterns are attractive but cushions do predominate. Two designs for a jacquard and a knot stitch cushion certainly couldn’t be out of place in any upmarket interior design emporium.

If you are looking for a cushion pattern, this book may be for you, but look elsewhere for a greater diversity of projects.

Knitting A Piece Of The Past

A Stitch In Time

Jane Waller and Susan Crawford

In A Nutshell: Vintage fashion meets knitting in a lovely book bringing the past to a modern audience

A truly luscious book that will enchant anyone interested in Vintage fashion, not just knitters. It’s based on a 1972 book which contained 100 original knitting and crochet patterns from the 1920s to the 1940s. Unfortunately the original draft of the book was destroyed in a fire so it was not possible to have it reprinted. Instead the book has now been recreated with a selection of 60 patterns reworked in contemporary yarns. As a bonus there is also a two for the price of one as the original pattern sits side by side with the modern reinterpretation.

Each decade of patterns begins with a brief introduction to its key style elements. For example the 1920s sweater was designed to conceal. It abolished the bosom and ignored the hips, by hanging like a sack from the neck to just below the hips. The main part had to be an easy to knit stitch and made in one long strip, and was often given shape and lightness by the addition of a lacy crocheted border in a more complex stitch. Low necks were often edged with a firm line of crochet.

It’s great fun identifying your decade, style wise, and which will most suit your figure. I love many of the styles, but know they would not be particularly flattering. As I’m slightly top heavy and short waisted, short boxy sweaters with high necklines and exaggerated sleeves are not for me. I would still consider making some of the patterns, but would modify the original design to make it more figure flattering. The book contains lovely photos with each garment styled to capture the essence of the era.

My first make from the book is to be the 1920s inspired crochet knit lace edged tunic.

One minor quibble is that none of the patterns have been assigned a level of difficulty, so I’m not sure how challenging some of the knits are. Equally wool weights have not been provided, making it harder to select a substitute.

I believe part two of this book is coming out shortly. I can hardly wait.

Seasonal Knitting

Inspired To Knit

Michele Rose Orne

In A Nutshell: An attractive book showcasing 19 seasonally inspired women’s knits with lovely colours and stitches but proportion and shape does not always work.

This is a good looking book with a fresh modern feel. The 19 women’s knitting patterns are grouped by the seasons, the time of year providing both the inspiration and colour palette for the designs. This is all delightfully illustrated by a mood board at the start of each section.

The patterns are interspersed with 4 workshops designed to help you find the inspiration to create your own designs. These basically cover creating a mood board, building a colour palette, creative swatching and creating a schematic to be able to knit up your design.

I enjoyed the inspiration aspect but am not entirely won over by the actual garments. Stitch patterns and motifs are very pretty but I felt the shapes of the clothes did not always work. The amber beaded cardigan looked better as a cropped bolero in its original sketch, rather than the long line version knitted up. The wedding dress proportions just don’t look right.

So for me, colour and stitch pattern were spot on but the shapes needed a rethink.

Not Enough Pictures

Weardowney Knit Couture

Henry Conway and Gail Downey

In a Nutshell: Interesting patterns but let down by unclear photos and a potted history of knitwear design written in a pretentious style.

I think this book is aimed at knitwear design students. It is written in a rather pretentious faux-academic style, so it is not a fluid easy read.

Half of the book is devoted to the history of knitting and short profiles of prominent knitwear designers. Although interesting, a lack of appropriate illustration is a major flaw. A few pages are devoted to the achievements of Chanel and Schiaparelli, the first two designers to truly incorporate knitwear into fashion design. Several of their groundbreaking designs are described but not illustrated. It would have made far more sense to show a picture, even if this was just a sketch.

The latter part of the book showcases 20 knitting patterns from design team Gail Downey and Amy Wear.  Unfortunately the arty photos do not show the designs clearly. There is a project gallery at the back of the book with more straightforward photos, but these are too small. It’s a shame as the designs are appealing and it would have been interesting to see the stitch patterns in more detail. I like their use of lurex and would like to make their vest top and stripe tunic.

The blurb claims the how to knit instructions provide the first time knitter with everything she needs to know. This is in fact a very limited amount of information, and I’m sure a beginner would need far more instruction to successfully knit a garment from the book.

This could have been a lovely book – the concept is good – but it is let down by its execution.

Classic With A Twist

Classic Knits

Marianne Isager

In A Nutshell: Solid book of knitting patterns with quirky twists

I think the title of this book is a misnomer – something more accurate would have been “Quirky Knits”. They are the invention of Danish Knitwear designer Marianne Isager with 20 patterns for men, women and children.

They are interesting designs but relatively simple. Each pattern starts with a swatch guide, ensuring the garment will be knitted to your exact requirements. The patterns are interspersed with useful advice on knitting techniques such as colour stranding, intarsia and adjusting a design for your own size.

I liked many of the textures and stitch patterns but wasn’t entirely enamoured with the colour schemes. I thought the single coloured, textured knits worked the best. My fave designs are the man’s fisherman sweater, Cossack cardigan and the Corsage vest top.

This is one of those books to which I have a neutral reaction – it’s not without interest but I couldn’t wholeheartedly recommend it.

Colour Clashes and Bodged Beads



25 Beaded Knits

Debbie Abrahams

In A Nutshell: Outrageous misuse of beads in clunky patterns with in your face colour schemes

I love a bit of sparkle so I’m always on the hunt for attractive beaded patterns. I didn’t find any here! The term “Beaded knits” makes me imagine delicate ethereal designs in soft muted shades. Instead Debbie gives me solid chunky knits in garish colour schemes with hundreds of random beads thrown in for good measure.

This book includes a variety of patterns for home furnishings, pattern accessories and garments. Unfortunately I didn’t like any of them. The beads are generally plonked on haphazardly, rather than being an intrinsic part of the design. This is further exacerbated by their incorporation with unpleasant clashing colours. There are such lovely complementary yarns out there, why couldn’t Debbie use them? The evening bags are the only patterns where the beading is used with any success.

There is a fair isle vest where Debbie blithely states: “ You will be noticed out on the streets if you wear this funky, fair isle vest.” You certainly would, but for all the wrong reasons. It’s guaranteed to make you a candidate for “what not to wear” columns.

I will say something positive about this book. Debbie explains the technique of knitting with beads extremely well. But you will be well advised to look elsewhere for your patterns.

Anyone with a modicum of style or fashion sense should avoid this book.

Adding Some Sparkle

Designer Bead Embroidery

Kenneth D. King

In A Nutshell: Patterns and techniques for 150 ornate beaded designs but somewhat old-fashioned in style

I’ve occasionally added a few beads round the neckline of some tops and often thought I’d like to tackle something more complex, so picked up this book looking for ideas. It contains 150 designs alongside information on equipment and basic techniques. There is also a very useful section giving design pointers as to where to incorporate beading into a garment.

The designs are stunning but I was put in mind of an old wealthy socialite wearing ornate haute couture. I’m no longer a youngster but would like to have seen more fresh and funky designs.

There is a photo of all the finished designs accompanied by a clear diagram and helpful tips to duplicate it. I feel I would have been more inspired to see photos of the complete garment so the beading could be viewed as part of a whole.

This book inspires me with the diverse range of effects that can be achieved with beading but I’m looking for more modern styles. I did like some insect designs but many others are a little too ornate for my taste.

Knitting In Black And White

Sweet and Simple Knitting Projects

Sally Walton

In A Nutshell: Useful, well-written book with fifteen easy projects for a novice knitter, but black and white format fails to inspire.

I am generally a fan of the Teach Yourself Books and have found their titles on French and Article Writing very useful. Unfortunately the format is not quite so effective for crafts. Knitting is a strongly visual activity and needs visual stimulation. This is a little paperback book on cheap paper with grainy black and white photos. When I took the time to read the content, I found it well written with good advice. There is also a fascinating section on the history if knitting.

It’s aimed at beginners with how-to-knit instructions and fifteen easy patterns. Though strictly speaking this is fourteen as I don’t consider a garter stitch scarf a pattern.  The projects include a hot-water bottle cover, a bag and some hats, quick knits that would make good gifts. Without a colour photo showing the finished articles, they fail to inspire. There is a jeans style hat which is probably quite cool, but a black and white picture does not make me want to knit it.

The book includes some good internet links and interesting tips. I learnt that running needles through my hair will help the yarn slide along better. But although I learnt some useful stuff, it’s not a book I will be returning to.

Too Many Flowers

Knitting In The Details

Louisa Harding

In A Nutshell: 24 simple knits embellished with embroidery, beading and appliqué that may have limited appeal

I love Louisa’s introduction to this book where she explains the inspiration behind it. She has a desire to collect stuff that sparkles or glistens then use these finds to add a special detail, a finishing touch that will make an item truly unique. In a world of instant availability, it’s time to recreate forgotten crafts. On this basis, I was expecting some very special pieces and unfortunately I didn’t feel they came up to my expectations.

This book contains 24 projects, mainly simple knits, where the interest comes from adding beading, appliqué and embroidery. There is one really standout piece, a very pretty lace and beaded edge bolero which I’d love to make. But apart from this, little else appealed. I thought some of the items would have looked better without embellishment. Of course, this is all a matter of personal taste, and I’m sure some people will love lots of stuff in this book.

Vintage Modern

Vintage Knits

Rowan

In A Nutshell: 31 vintage inspired designs for both men and women with modern twists and interesting styling details

This book perfectly captures the mood of the moment with a love for all things vintage. It features designs inspired by the 40s, 50s and 60s, adapted for modern figures using Rowan wools. There are 31 patterns; seven are for men, featuring top Rowan designers including Kaffe Fassett, Kim Hargreaves and Louisa Harding.

I counted up and there are actually eight patterns I would consider making, so considered this a quite good return on the current cover price, as I would be paying around a £1 a pattern.  Amongst the designs I wasn’t so keen on, I picked up little styling details that would work with other garments. I liked an eyelet neckline and ribbon tie.

All the knitwear is beautifully styled with complementary vintage clothes and accessories. Each piece has a little information about the inspiration behind it and even some styling tips as to how to wear it.

The designs make extensive use of tweed wools to good effect. Many of the designs for women are little fitted cardigans with interesting detail. My absolute favourite was a little belted jacket worked in off-white tweed with red intarsia floral motifs.

I’ve borrowed this book from the library but may have to buy it.

Knitting By Design

How To Use, Adapt And Design Knitting Patterns

Sam Elliott and Sidney Bryan

In A Nutshell: Modern fresh layout and well explained method of knitting design let down by unattractive examples.

This book has had some quite sniffy reviews on Amazon, but I rather enjoyed it. To start with, there is a fresh, clean modern appeal in the layout, making it an attractive book to read. With regards to content, it breaks down into three distinct sections. Firstly how to use shop bought patterns, then how to create your own patterns, and thirdly how to change and adapt a pattern.

The most successful part is undoubtedly how to create your own knitting pattern. I found the author’s method fascinating.  They use an existing garment as a starting point, and this does not necessarily need to be a knitted item. To demonstrate the method the authors use a T shirt, taking you from measurements, through creating a tension swatch, converting this to stitches and rows, making a paper pattern and using this to create a toile. I found the instructions well described and feel I would be able to successfully use their method.

Their fusion of sewing and knitting particularly appealed to me, though I understand a non-sewer would probably not like this method of design. I am inspired to look through my wardrobe and see whether I have a garment that will translate to a knitted item.

The main failing of this book is that the examples used to demonstrate the techniques are unappealing. The one exception is the cover, a simple A line cardigan with cabling detail. I was disappointed that this was not included as a pattern with the book. I suppose I will just have to follow the author’s instructions and design it myself.